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WARNING "This shrink wrap can burn. If heat is applied incorrectly, shrink wrap can ignite into open flame. It can also drop down on to other combustible material and cause secondary ignition and fire. If at any time you observe the shrink wrap on fire, immediately stop what you are doing and carefully inspect the area where you are working for a possible fire. Keep a fire extinguisher available at all times. Inspect the cover for up to 30 minutes after shrink wrapping to look for hot spots”.

SHRINK WRAPPING TIPS
Shrink wrapping is a series of logical steps with a bunch of common sense thrown in the mix. A professional job can be accomplished by following the tips listed below.

1. Always survey the items to be covered before beginning the shrink wrapping job. Note any current damage with either a written check list or digital camera. Also look for hazards that could affect the shrink wrappers or the shrink wrap. These could be sharp objects, potential slip areas, combustible materials or fumes. Have the proper equipment for completing the job before starting. This means all necessary personal safety equipment, ladders, man lifts, fire extinguishers, etc. Remember, unless specifically stated as being “Flame Retardant” on the label of the shrink wrap: "This shrink wrap can burn. If heat is applied incorrectly, shrink wrap can ignite into open flame. It can also drop down on to other combustible material and cause secondary ignition and fire. If at any time you observe the shrink wrap on fire, immediately stop what you are doing and carefully inspect the area where you are working for a possible fire. Keep a fire extinguisher available at all times."

2. Measure all areas to be covered to assure that you have the proper size shrink wrap to cover the project in the fewest number of pieces. It is much easier to cover large objects in one piece of shrink wrap. Use the thickest material possible on larger objects. If it is necessary to use two pieces of shrink wrap then there must be an allowance of 8-10 inches of overlap where the pieces will be joined. Flame retardant shrink wrap is available for roofs, scaffolding, machinery, boats, etc.

3. Always have an attachment plan ready before taking the shrink wrap out of the box. Shrink wrap must be attached firmly around the entire perimeter for it to become a tight durable cover. It can be attached by woven cord strapping, tape, steel cabling or furring strips—depending on the job.

4. Keep the shrink wrap clean and folded as long as possible during installation. Shrink wrap head welds to itself much better when it is clean. Once the shrink wrap is unfolded it is much harder to manage in case the wind comes up. NEVER SHRINK WRAP IN A WIND OVER 10 MPH!

5. Use Common sense. Don’t walk on the shrink wrap when it is wet, don’t shrink wrap if you can smell flammable aromas, use all safety equipment necessary. Keep a fire watch at all times and inspect the job for _ hour after the shrink wrap is heated to make sure there are no hot spots. Never shrink wrap over fuel vents, air vents on roofs, roof drains, air conditioning units, etc. Never drink alcohol before shrink wrapping.

6. Tight Shrink wrap Covers are the most durable covers. Shrink wrap works much better than poly tarps because it does not move or chafe when properly applied and heated. The tighter the cover is—the better. Again, firm attachment points around the entire perimeter of the shrink wrap are necessary to ensure the shrink tightness comes from shrinking the wrap itself rather having the edges pull in.

IS IT HARD TO SHRINK WRAP?
No, it isn’t difficult to shrink wrap. We suggest watching the Dr. Shrink “ Wrap it up Video” at least twice before shrink wrapping and also evaluate the weather if you will be shrink wrapping outside. Clear days with light winds make the covering process go much quicker and you will end up with a much more durable cover. Shrink wrapping is a series of logical steps mixed with common sense.

WHAT ABOUT MOISTURE UNDER THE COVER?
Every shrink wrap cover must be ventilated to eliminate moisture and condensation under the cover. Our DS-683 self-adhesive vent allows cross flow ventilation throughout the cover minimizing chances of excess moisture and mildew. The number of vents will vary according what you are covering, but a minimum would be 3 vents for runabouts and up to 8+ vents for boats 34 foot and above. Cabins and seat cushions should also be left open to help stimulate ventilation. Also, refer to the Shrink Wrap page for the chart titled DR. SHRINK BOAT SIZE & VENTING

SUPPORT STRUCTURES?
Support structures are very important under shrink wrap storage covers. Dr. Shrink’s “Wrap it up Video” will guide you step-by-step in the construction of a woven cord strapping and wooden upright support system (simply using your 2 x 4's with Dr. Shrink's end caps). These simple, yet effective supports give the cover enough slope and strength so that snow and rain will run off.

CAN THE HEAT TOOL CAUSE DAMAGE?
The propane fired heat tools used in shrink wrapping must be used in accordance with the directions in the Dr. Shrink’s “Wrap it up Video”. Always remember Safety First!! The video will explain how heat is swept over the cover, almost like spray painting, and is never left on one spot long enough to damage vinyl graphics, paint, gel coat, wood, etc. In fact, the shrink wrap will become thin and holes will form before enough heat is transferred to damage what is being covered. If the shrink wrap should get a burn hole, and it appears the wrap is stuck to the product, just leave the wrap cool and it will come loose by itself.

HOW DO I REPAIR TEAR OR BURN HOLES IN THE COVER?
First, holes are not rare in shrink wrap covers. It is very easy to puncture the material before it is shrunk, conversely, it is easy to repair holes. If it is a small hole a piece of heat shrink tape will fix it quickly. If it is a larger hole, a scrap of shrink wrap approximately 2” larger than the hole may be taped on the original cover and lightly shrunk.

IS THERE A WAY I CAN GET INTO THE COVER DURING THE STORAGE SEASON?
Yes! Dr. Shrink, Inc. offers both a 30”X36” and 30”X48” zipper access door. These are installed, by taping them onto the shrink wrap, after the cover is completely shrunk.

WHAT OTHER HARDWARE DO I NEED TO SHRINK WRAP BESIDES A HEAT TOOL?
Our shrink wrapping program is very simple, but you will need a DS-15 Tensioning Tool, DS-007 Film Cutting Knife, DS-009 Long Cuff Safety Gloves, and DS-010 Safety Glasses along with a Heat Tool/Shrink Wrap Gun. Equipment the installer needs to provide include ladders to fit the job, 20lb. propane tank, hand saw, jack knife, Arrow T-50 Stapler, and a 25’ tape measure. Of course, you will need shrink wrap to fit the job, strapping, buckles, tape and vents.

WHAT DO I DO WITH MY SHRINK WRAP AFTER I REMOVE IT?
Dr. Shrink, Inc. has a unique recycling program call the REBAG® System. Each REBAG® holds approximately 600 sq. ft. of shrink wrap and comes with a closure device and a prepaid UPS Authorized Return System label. Our system works throughout the United States and Canada.

HOW DO I MEASURE AND FIND THE RIGHT SIZE SHRINK WRAP FOR MY PRODUCTS
This is very easy to do. Measure from the center of your product, at the highest point, over the side and down at least 8” below where you want the cover to go. For example, on a powerboat with arch: measure from the center of the arch to down below the rub rail. Then double that figure and add on 1 foot for the shrink wrap which will be tucked under the perimeter band.

CAN I GET TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE?
Yes, Dr. Shrink, Inc. may be contacted at (800) 968-5147, from 8:00a.m.-6:00p.m. Monday through Saturday, when you have questions or comments about shrink wrapping. They can guide you through the basics of wrapping or help with that “special” job. Dr. Shrink, Inc. may also be contacted by e-mail at drshrink@dr-shrink.com

IF I AM TRANSPORTING A PRODUCT SHOULD I ATTACH IT DIFFERENTLY?
Definitely. Transportation covers need no support structure, just a couple of straps running fore and aft under the shrink wrap to give it support as it travels down the road. Also, a very good way of holding the shrink wrap to the product is by taping it on using our Preservation Tape. This tape leaves no adhesive residue and keeps wind from blowing under the cover which may cause chafing or loss of the shrink wrap.

WHAT COLOR SHRINK WRAP SHOULD I USE? IS THERE A DIFFERENCE?
Shrink wrap comes in blue, white & clear. If you live in a northern climate blue wrap absorbs heat and allows snow and ice to fall from the cover. For southern climates white reflects heat and keeps covered boats cooler. (Clear shrink wrap is only available from SailorSams by special order - it should only be used on boats during the winter months. It absorbs a lot of heat which can damage boat interiors. If you use clear wrap always over ventilate.) If you are showing boats or working on them, white should be the color of choice. It provides an excellent shadow free lighting and perfect color rendition.

TAPING ON COVERS
Installing a shrink wrap transportation cover using 4” hull tape to hold the cover onto the boat is a quick, durable, and cost effective method of protection.

1. Pad sharp objects on the boat and also all items such as vinyl interiors that could be damaged by excessive heat. Generally, one layer of shrink wrap over vinyl will be sufficient. Place anti-chafe tape on all areas that may be abraded, including vinyl graphics. Tape over the fuel vent to prevent fumes from escaping.

2. Determine how far down the hull sides the shrink wrap will come. The shrink wrap should cover all vinyl graphics so that the hull tape will not adhere to them.

3. This step is very important—the hull must have all wax and mold releases removed from the hull where the hull tape will attach to it. Use rags and isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean a swath along the hull at least 8 inches wide. This will assure proper adhesion of the tape.

4. Install a simple support structure by running 3⁄4” strapping from one cleat on the stern through the cleat, or to the top of the rail, on the opposite side at the bow, then through the other bow cleat, or rail, to the opposite stern cleat. You should have a criss-cross pattern. Pull it tight so that it will support the plastic. This should be done on all boats and gives extra support in case the covers are left on for extended periods.

5. Pull the shrink wrap over the boat making sure it doesn’t touch the ground. Static electricity will allow the shrink wrap to pick up dirt and grime and will affect the shrinking and adhesion of the tape.

6. Once you have enough wrap at the bow, tape it below the rub rail on each side to hold it in position. Now cut the wrap at the stern 4”-6” below where it will be taped on. Trim the wrap in the center of the transom and tape it to the hull. Now that the material is taped fore and aft it will be held in place while it is trimmed completely around the hull using a Dr. Shrink’s Film Cutting Knife. Use of this tool will give a straight line around the hull making it much easier to tape, plus the knife cannot damage the hull or cut employees.

7. Before you begin taping the shrink wrap to the hull form the pleats at each side of the windshield. Fold them towards the stern, pull the plastic until it is taut, and tape the wrap to the hull at that point.

8. Now the entire cover can be taped to the hull using 4” hull tape. Start at the bow or stern and tape as closely as possible so that the tape is halfway on the shrink wrap and half on the hull. Rub the tape to eliminate air bubbles under it. Always cut the tape rather than tearing it—rough edges allow moisture under the tape which kills the adhesive. Make sure the tape is sticking tightly to the hull around the transom and swim platform.

9. The cover is ready to be completely shrunk after step 8. Begin at the bottom of the cover at the bow or stern using the heat tool as though you are spray painting. Note: this is not flame retardant shrink wrap. It can burn. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby at all times. Shrink up to the rub rail around the entire boat before shrinking the top. This will pull the excess out of the top and provide a much tighter cover.

10. After the cover is totally heated go around the boat and repair any holes with hull tape.

The most important steps are:
a. Padding sharp objects, cleaning the hull of all waxes and release agents, and taping the fuel vent.
b. Cutting the shrink wrap in a straight line around the hull.
c. Applying the tape equally to the wrap and hull, then rubbing the tape to eliminate air bubbles under the tape and help assure complete adhesion.
d. Running 3⁄4” strapping fore and aft to make a simple, strong support structure for the wrap to rest on.

WRAPPING INSTRUCTIONS & Materials Required List
The purpose of using shrink wrap in the marine field is twofold:
1. To enclose boats for protection them from the elements when they are stored outside during the off-season.

2. To protect new boats as they are transported from the builder to the dealer. Each of these applications has a different method of installation of the shrink wrap. The only common denominator is that each uses a piece of shrink wrap as the cover and a heat tool to shrink it.

Shrink wrap (#4 LDPE) The shrink wrap itself is a 6 or 7 mil, low density polyethylene (#4 for recycling purposes). What makes this material different than construction plastic sheeting is that it contains shrinking resins, UV inhibitors, anti-brittling compounds, and strengtheners so that it will not rip or tear. Dr. Shrink, Inc. uses only virgin resin material in our premium shrink wrap. Please note that this shrink wrap does not contain any flame retardant compounds. It is possible for the shrink wrap to burn. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby at all times.

Materials needed to shrink wrap a boat for outside winter storage.
1. Shrink wrap
2. Woven cord strapping
3. 2” x 4” boards
4. Heat tool
5. Heat shrink tape
6. Vents
7. Hand saw
8. Measuring tape
9. Safety gloves and glasses
10. Fire Extinguisher
11. Stapler
12. End Caps for each end of wooden uprights

Materials needed to shrink wrap a boat for transportation to the dealer.
1. Shrink wrap
2. Hull or preservation tape and mineral spirits to remove wax.
3. Heat tool
4. Vents
5. Fire Extinguisher

Steps in covering a boat for outside storage

1. Go around the boat to determine if there are any unusual features to the vessel. These would be outriggers, trolling motors, antennas, flimsy windshields etc. These items must be noted so they can be padded, or protected before the shrink wrap is laid over the boat.

2. At the same time look for, and note, any damage that has already occurred to the boat. Owners will blame any imperfection on the shrink wrap crew. Support Structure

3. Whenever a boat is stored outside with a shrink wrap cover it must have a support structure under the cover, with wooden uprights, to keep rain or snow from sitting on the cover and causing damage to the boat.

4. The first step in building a support structure is to run woven cord strapping lengthwise on the boat from the highest point at the bow, such as the top of the rails or lifelines, to the highest point at the stern, which would be the stern rails or cleats on top of the toe rail. This strapping must be pulled extremely tight as it is the beginning of the support structure. Once this strap is pulled tight a tape measure is used to measure from the deck, directly behind the windshield in the cockpit, to the top of the windshield. 9” must be added to this figure and a 2” x 4” cut to this length (on wide beam boats you may need a taller 2” X 4”). This will be one of the wooden uprights that will give the cover enough slope to shed rain or snow from it.

5. This previously cut board is then forced upright under the rope/strap going lengthwise on the boat. It should end up vertically just behind the windshield in the cockpit. Now a strap must be run laterally (side to side) on the vessel so that it runs over the top of the 2” x 4” and makes a cross with the lengthwise rope/strap. These can be tied to the top of the rails, cleats, trailer, or they can go around the entire boat. This strap must be pulled tight as it is part of the support structure and will help keep weight off the windshield.

6. Once that is completed, the foredeck and cockpit are measured and wooden uprights 6” taller than where the fore and aft strap normally lies are inserted under the rope/strap. Again, a cross strap is run over the top of each of these boards. These uprights must be no farther than 7’ apart. The number of uprights will vary depending on boat length.

7. The tops and bottoms of each upright must be covered with Dr. Shrink’s End Caps to keep them from protruding through the cover or having the base slip during the winter months.

8. This is now a good time to pad all sharp objects such as windshield corners, cleats, antenna bases, etc. TAPE THE FUEL VENTS AT THIS TIME! Call the boat builder if the vents can’t be found. This is very important to eliminate explosions. Again, this is not flame retardant shrink wrap. It can burn. Keep a fire extinguisher near you at all times.

Measuring to determine shrink wrap size and installing perimeter band
9. A tape measure is used to measure from the top of the upright behind the windshield to however far down the side of the boat you wish to install the cover. This number is then doubled and it will give you the size of shrink wrap you will need. (standard shrink wrap sizes are from 12’-40’). You must also allow 6” of additional shrink wrap length on each side of the boat to tuck around and under the perimeter band going around the boat.

10. The next step is to install a perimeter band around the boat which is used to hold the shrink wrap on the boat. There are several method of attaching this band around the boat. One is to run a rope/strap through the bow eye, around the boat, and through the two eyes on the stern of the boat. This rope/strap is then pulled tight. A Second method is to tie loops, made of rope/strap, down from the cleats or stanchion bases to the level that you wish to cover the boat. These should be hung every 3’-4’ around the hull. The perimeter band is them run through these loops and pulled very tight. A Third method is to use the Dr. Shrink’s “stick-ups” which are suction cups stuck around the hull of the boat, every 3’-4’, which hold the perimeter band in place while you are tucking the shrink wrap over and under it. A Fourth method is to tape the shrink wrap to the hull with hull/preservation tape, thereby eliminating any perimeter band at all. This is the most common way for boat builders to attach covers.

Installing the shrink wrap
12. Once the support structure is in place, all sharp objects padded, and the perimeter band is attached—or tape is going to be used in place of the perimeter band, the shrink wrap can be put on.

13. The proper size shrink wrap is now put on a roller at the stern of the boat. Coming from the flat stern allows the wrap to be pulled over the boat much easier than coming from the bow end. The wrap is pulled over the boat making sure that there is enough extra at the bow and stern to tuck around and under the perimeter band. This will help hold it in place in case the wind is blowing.

14. After the wrap has been pulled over and tucked at the ends the rest of the wrap can be unfolded. There will pleats of excess wrap at the windshield corners, corners of the stern, and as the wrap goes from the bow aft. The pleats at the windshield must be folded to the rear of the boat and tucked over and under the perimeter band, or taped in place if there is no perimeter band. This will assure that there is enough wrap fore and aft and side to side.

15. Now the rest of the wrap can be cut 6” below the perimeter band, or just taped onto the boat, if there is no perimeter band. Once this is done all of the material can be tucked around and under the band or taped around the hull.

16. After being tucked around and under the perimeter band the heat tool is used to apply heat directly above the band which heat welds the outside of the wrap and the piece tucked under the band. As you come to pleats or seams these are heat welded at the same time.

17. When the entire perimeter and pleats and seams have been welded it is time for bands that go from the perimeter band under the boat to the band on the other side. These keep the material and perimeter band from rising as the shrink wrap shrinks. If these bands are not used there is also a chance that snow or rain sitting on the cover could raise the perimeter band and allow these to pool up in the cover. This could cause tremendous amounts of damage to the boat.

Shrinking the cover
18. Once the bands are on it is time to begin shrinking the entire cover. It is important to first shrink around the boat from the perimeter band, or taped line, to the rub rail on the boat. Using the heat tool is very similar to spray painting. The trigger is pulled as you move the heat back and forth, in a horizontal fashion, across the shrink wrap. You should begin at the lowest part of the cover and let the rising heat work for you to start warming the plastic. The ultimate goal is to have a tight top that will repel snow and rain, and this method will pull additional slack out of the top so that it will not take as much shrinking when you are ready for that area.

19. The rest of the cover can be shrunk once you have completed heating to the rub rail. Always start at one end of the boat and work in the same direction around the boat. This will give a tighter, more protective cover. Again, the ultimate goal is a tight, wrinkle free cover that will shed snow and ice.

Hole patrol and venting
20. It is very important to look over the entire cover for holes, weak spots, or pleats that did not get heated enough. These should be taped with heat shrink tape. Once the tape is applied it should be warmed slightly to heat the adhesives and then rubbed to remove any air bubbles. If a hole is bigger than the tape that you have, then a piece of shrink wrap 3” bigger than the hole should be placed over the hole and taped around the entire edge area. Heat the tape with heat tool and then shrink the patch. It will be good as new.

21. The last step is to ventilate the cover the Dr. Shrink’s self adhesive vents. There should be anywhere from 3 to 10 vents attached to the most vertical surfaces around the boat. By putting the vents around the boat you are causing cross flow ventilation to occur. This will help eliminate any moisture and mildew buildup.

Taping on covers for boat builders and dealers
1. Most builders tape their shrink wrap covers on and they provide no support system on the top of the boats. These covers are designed only for transportation and not for protection against snow load or heavy rain damage. Some dealers in southern states also use this method.
2. It is very simple to cover boats this way. First de-wax the hull with mineral spirits where the tape will adhere to it. All sharp objects are padded, the shrink wrap is laid over the boat, the shrink wrap is trimmed and taped all around the hull, then heat is applied to shrink it. Following that the OEM’s usually patch holes and sometime vent the covers.

MACHINERY COVERING TIPS
SAFETY FIRST!
--Always watch the Dr. Shrink’s training video before shrinking any objects.
--Never point the DS-789 at yourself or anyone else.
--Always wear safety gloves, long sleeves, long pants and safety glasses.
--Do not use the DS-789 while under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Dr. Shrink’s DS-789 is a propane fired heat tool that works extremely well for shrinking plastic sheeting, but it must be used properly to eliminate accidents. The shrink wrap you will be heating is not flame retardant unless it was specifically ordered as such. Shrink wrap can burn. Keep a fire
extinguisher nearby at all times.

1. To begin using the DS-789 first hook the adjustable regulator to the 20 lb. Propane tank making sure the connection is tight. Turn the knurled knob on the regulator clockwise until it stops—then back it off one complete turn.

2. Attach the hose connector to the regulator, again making sure the connection is tight. Next connect the DS-789 heat tool to the opposite end of the hose and tighten.

3. Before turning on the propane make sure all valves on the heat tool are turned off. The valve nearest the hose is the main gas inlet and the valve nearest the head of the heat tool is for adjusting the pilot light.

4. Turn on the propane at the tank, then open the main gas valve which is closest to the hose connection. Now the pilot valve can be opened approximately one quarter of a turn—or until you hear gas escaping. Do not open the pilot valve to far or the DS-789 will not ignite. With the pilot valve opened push on the piezo electric igniter located on the heat tool head. There will now be a pilot light that burns continuously. Adjust it so that the flame is about 3” beyond the head of the DS-789.

5. To adjust the flame for actual wrapping, squeeze on the trigger located on the handle. For close up work, such as the heat weld around the base of the object you are covering, you will not need the maximum amount of btu’s. Place a finger under the trigger to help keep from squeezing the trigger completely. When you are ready for shrink wrapping the larger sections the maximum amount of heat may be used (see Dr. Shrink’s training video for shrinking methods).

Logical steps in shrink wrapping
1. Walk around the object you are going to cover to look for problem areas—it’s much better to do it now rather than when you are shrinking. Ascertain what sharp areas may need to be padded to keep the wrap from tearing, or areas that need to protected against excessive heat (electrical panels, hoses, etc.). Also decide how far down the object you will cover and how you will attach
the shrink wrap.

2. Pad the areas you previously discovered and measure the object to see what size wrap will work well for you.

3. Bring the shrink wrap over the object (put the wrap on a roller and do not let it drag on the floor or ground as it will pick up dirt).

4. Form pleats at the corners and where excess wrap is apparent (see video to view how pleats are made) and tape in position until you can heat weld them.

5. Run strapping around base of object to be covered making sure that 6” of shrink wrap lies below the strap (trim excess so that there is no more than 6”). Tighten strap with buckles and tensioning tool until it is extremely tight.

6. Now use the DS-789 to heat weld the shrink wrap around the base of the object to be covered. This is accomplished by flipping the wrap below the strapping up and applying heat to form a heat weld (watch video for techniques).

7. As you are heat welding the base also seal the pleats with the DS-789 heat tool (also shown on the training video).

8. Once the heat weld around the base and the pleats are sealed the entire unit may be shrunk. Begin above the bottom heat weld and Shrink upward. Use strokes similar to spray painting—letting off the trigger at the end of each stroke. Try and heat each area of the wrap only one time. Hit it hard and move on. Do not use a small amount of heat so that the heat tool must be moved over the wrap several times to get it shrinking. This thins the wrap rather than shrinking it.

9. After you have shrunk the entire surface go over the unit and check for holes and pleats that have come apart. Use tape to repair small holes and to seal the loose pleats. To repair larger holes take a piece of scrap 2” larger than the hole and tape it over the hole. Lightly Shrink it using the DS-789 to tighten it.

SHRINK WRAPPING SAILBOATS
PLEASE NOTE THAT SAILBOATS PAINTED WITH AWLGRIP® OR IMRON® SHOULD NOT BE SHRINK WRAPPED, UNLESS THE COVER COMES JUST BELOW THE GUNWALE AND THE PERIMETER BAND IS SEPARATED FROM THE HULL BY FOAM BLOCKS.

MAST DOWN
Shrink wrapping a sailboat with the mast down uses many of the same principles explained on the Dr. Shrink’s “Wrap it up Video” which is included with your DS- 789 HEAT TOOL KIT. Before beginning the covering process please view the videotape at least twice to familiarize yourself with all steps.

Note: Shrink wrap does not contain any flame retardant compounds. It is possible for the shrink wrap to burn. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby at all times. When covering a sailing vessel, mast down, the following steps must be followed:

1. Run strapping fore and aft on the boat from the highest point on the bow (pulpit) to the highest point on the stern (stern rails). Tighten this strap with a buckle by using the included buckle installation instructions.

2. Once the strap is tightened you may begin measuring the 2” X 4” wooden uprights that will form your support structure. These wooden uprights are forced under the fore and aft strapping and will give the shrink wrap cover the necessary pitch to allow snow and rain to run off. One upright will be needed in the cockpit and then every 5’-6’ until the bow is reached. If possible the upright should be lined up between stanchions so a woven cord strap can be run laterally from the top of the stanchion across the top of the upright to the top of the opposing stanchion (this strap will give additional support to the cover and also help keep your upright from falling down). The height of the uprights will vary with different boats, but when complete the center strap must be at least 18 inches higher than the top of the stanchions. Again, this will give the cover enough slope to allow snow and rain to run off .

3. Now, staple the strapping onto the top of the upright where it crosses the fore and aft strap (An Arrow T-50 stapler works great). Pad the tops of the uprights as shown on the “Wrap it up Video”.

4. Once this is completed the rest of the covering process can be done by following the steps on the videotape.

MAST UP
Covering a sailboat mast up can seem like a very daunting proposition at first, but it takes only a couple of more steps than shrink wrapping a mast down boat. Follow the directions below and watching the training video at least twice will minimize any problems.

1. Install your strapping fore and aft on the boat from the highest points at the bow and stern. The strapping will be tied around the mast from the stern, and then around the mast from the bow (if the boom is left on it can become part of the support structure aft of the mast, but you must put a 2” X 4” upright under the rear of the boom to give it strength). Pull the strapping tight as you normally would, measure and install your wooden uprights as on a mast down boat, put your lateral straps over the wooden uprights, or boom, and pad them.

2. Install the perimeter band following directions on the “Wrap it up Video”.

3. Go aboard the boat with a 25’ tape measure. Measure from the mast back to the farthest point aft (top of the stern rail). To this figure add 2 feet which will be forward of the mast and 4 feet that will drape over the stern (a total of 6 extra feet).

4. Now measure from the mast forward (top of the bow rail or pulpit). To this figure add on 2 feet which will extend aft of the mast and 4 feet that will drape over the bow (a total of 6 extra feet).

5. Next cut your roll of shrink wrap the measurement length from the mast back. Roll it up and take it onto the boat. Lay the roll on your support structure or boom and open it enough to measure and find the center of the wrap. Make a 2’ lengthwise slit in the shrink wrap at the center of the material. This slit area will be wrapped around the mast to form a collar. Once you have a collar formed, take the roll of heat Shrink tape and go around the collar twice very tightly (do not tape the shrink wrap directly to the mast as there might be an adhesive residue in the spring).

6. Unroll the aft section of shrink wrap towards the stern (do not unfold its entire width yet, as the wind might catch it). Go aft as far as possible, until you run into the aft stays. Now you can unfold the shrink wrap and have it lay as straight fore and aft, and side to side, as possible. Using your wrap cutting knife make slits in the shrink wrap up to the stays and halyards. They should be
neat. Use strips of heat shrink tape to seal them (press the tape down firmly to remove all air bubbles).

7. Trim and tuck the shrink wrap under the perimeter band on the boat so that wind doesn’t catch it.

8. Now the shrink wrap piece at the bow can be attached. It is done in a similar fashion as the aft piece. Put the measured piece of wrap just forward of the mast, find the center of the shrink wrap, slice into it 2 feet, make a collar around the mast tightly tape around it. Unroll the wrap towards the bow up to the forestay. Slice the wrap to the forestay and roll it over the bow. Tape the slit together and unfold the shrink wrap.

a. Run a strip of tape from the mast down to each side of the shrink wrap where the forward and aft pieces meet. Use the heat tool to warm the adhesives in the tape and actually heat weld the pieces of shrink wrap together.

b. Trim and tuck the forward piece under the perimeter band. Complete the shrink wrap job as shown on the “Wrap it up Video”. Remember to do a complete “Hole Patrol” on the cover when you are done shrinking—and also install enough vents to give you cross-flow ventilation throughout the entire boat. Thanks for using the Dr. Shrink’s “Wrap it up Kit”.

**FREIGHT NOTE: most of Dr Shrink's products ship promptly (same or next business day) by parcel (i.e. UPS or FedEx), while the heaviest items must ship by freight carrier. Please note that freight carrier shipping takes longer to prepare (ALLOW 2-3 DAYS FOR PROCESSING FREIGHT CARRIER ORDERS) and costs more (the weight of the pallet adds to the shipping cost). Freight carriers generally require someone to be present to INSPECT and accept delivery. You may be able to purchase 2 or 3 smaller rolls that ship by parcel instead of freight carrier, which gets the product to you more quickly, can get you more product for your money, and can be easier for you to handle. On the shrink wrap order page, each shrink wrap roll is notated as to how it ships (parcel or freight carrier).